KWEICHOW MOUTAI

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KWEICHOW MOUTAI

Table of Contents

[Abstract]

Moutai is a luxury Chinese liquor that has gained worldwide recognition for its premium quality, unique flavor, and rich cultural heritage. Made from sorghum and other grains using a complex distillation process that has been perfected over centuries, Moutai is a spirit that embodies the artistry and craftsmanship of Chinese culture. With its distinctive aroma, complex flavor profile, and smooth finish, Moutai is a true connoisseur’s spirit that appeals to discerning drinkers who appreciate the finer things in life. Whether enjoyed neat, on the rocks, or mixed into cocktails, Moutai is a spirit that is sure to impress and delight even the most sophisticated palates.

Moutai is a type of baijiu, a traditional Chinese liquor that has been produced for over 2000 years. The origins of Moutai can be traced back to the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), when it was produced exclusively for the imperial court. It was not until the 19th century that Moutai became available to the general public and gained popularity as a popular spirit throughout China.

Moutai has a deep cultural significance in China, as it is considered a symbol of national pride and tradition. It is often served at formal banquets and celebrations, such as weddings, business meetings, and government functions. Moutai is also known as the “National Liquor” of China, and has been given as a gift to foreign dignitaries as a symbol of Chinese culture and hospitality.

Moutai is produced in the town of Maotai in Guizhou province, which is known for its unique climate and water sources that are ideal for making baijiu. The production process involves fermenting sorghum and other grains using a special strain of yeast that is unique to Moutai. The fermented mash is then distilled in clay pots and aged for several years in oak barrels, resulting in a smooth and complex flavor profile that is distinct from other types of baijiu.

Moutai’s reputation as a premium liquor has only grown over time, with demand for the brand soaring in recent years. In 2017, Moutai became the world’s most valuable liquor brand, with a market capitalization of over $71 billion USD. Today, Moutai is exported to over 100 countries around the world and is widely recognized as one of China’s most iconic cultural exports.

History at a glance

Moutai is a type of Chinese liquor with high percentage of alcoholic content, also known as “Baijiu” in China, which has a long and rich history dating back more than 2,000 years. The Moutai distillery is located in the town of Maotai county of Renhuai City in Guizhou province, southwest China. Here is a brief overview of Moutai’s history:

  • Moutai’s origins can be traced back to the Han dynasty (206 BC – 220 AD), when it was first produced in Guizhou province.
  • During the Ming dynasty (1368-1644), Moutai was designated as an official tribute liquor and served at imperial banquets.
  • In the late 19th century, Moutai won a gold medal at the Panama-Pacific International Exposition in San Francisco, which helped establish its reputation outside of China.
  • In the 1950s, the Chinese government began to promote Moutai as a national symbol of Chinese culture and identity. Moutai became the official liquor served at state banquets and was given as a diplomatic gift to foreign leaders.
  • In 1999, Moutai was listed as a “national intangible cultural heritage” by the Chinese government, recognizing its cultural significance and historical importance.
  • Today, Moutai is one of the most famous and prestigious baijiu brands in China, known for its smooth taste, complex aroma, and premium quality. It is often served at important occasions and events, such as weddings, business banquets, and government meetings.
  • In recent years, Moutai has gained popularity internationally, with an increasing number of people outside of China discovering and appreciating its unique flavor and cultural significance.

Introduction

Along the track of 27.51° north latitude, in the hinterland of the Yunnan-Kweichow Plateau, thousands of kilometers from the coastline, a river flowing through the world’s unique karst landform is bringing the mysterious bouquet hidden in mountains to you. Here is Moutai Town of China’s Guizhou Province—a distinctive and magical land. A mysterious bouquet called “sauce fragrance”(Jiang fragrance) and a sauce fragrance liquor named “Kweichow Moutai” here are intoxicating the entire world.

Located in northwestern Renhuai City of China’s Guizhou Province, on the east bank of the Chishui River, at the foot of the Hanpo Mountain, and on the slope of the Ma’an Mountain, Moutai Town is the core production base of Chinese sauce fragrance liquor and boasts a long history of liquor-making tradition and unique natural environment. The climate here features mild winter, hot summer, slight wind, less rainfall, high temperature, and high humidity. Such a climate and the slightly acidic purple soil in the valley together generate the unique, exceptional, and natural water for making Moutai. Besides, the brewing environment with a history of thousands of years, as well as the abundant and unique microorganism active in the air together accomplish Moutai’s unique “sauce fragrance”. These factors also determine that Moutai can be produced only in Moutai Town. In other words, Moutai is destined to be a scarce product.

Along the Chishui River, with an area of 15.03 square kilometers, the origin protected area of Kweichow Moutai is the only area for producing Moutai. On the world map, you will never find the same or similar area. Therefore, “out of Moutai Town, producing Moutai is impossible”.

Along the Chishui River is the boundless sorghum field. The farmers here carry on the ancient farming technology, sow in spring, harvest in autumn, weed manually, and refuse to use any chemical fertilizer. This native variety of the Chishui River basin is an organic sorghum called “red tassels”, which features thick husk, small grain, red color, high content of tannin and amylopectin, and abundant phenolic substances. It is the best choice for making Moutai.

As a heritage of farming civilization, Moutai’s making technique still strictly abides by the tradition. The period from the Double Ninth Festival to the Dragon Boat Festival the next year is the period for feeding materials, boiling materials, and collecting liquor, and requires much water. In this period, the Chishui River happens to be clear and transparent. During the rainy season after the Dragon Boat Festival, the river water turns reddish brown due to the wanton rainfall. In this period, Moutai’s brewing process is in the fermentation and collection stage, and little water is needed. Such seasonal making technique determines that Moutai cannot be produced in large scale.

This is the philosophy of “harmony between man and nature” believed by the Chinese people. Moutai’s complicated and seasonal making process lasts for one year, that is, make koji during the Dragon Boat Festival, feed materials during the Double Ninth Festival, steam for nine times, ferment for eight times, and collect liquor for seven times. After being produced, the liquor is classified and stored, blended and preserved in cellars, and finally packaged to enter the market. The entire process takes five years. In other words, before each bottle of ordinary Moutai liquor is delivered to consumers, at least five years are required.

For such hard-won and unparalleled liquor, its distinctive mellowness can be felt only through careful tasting. To taste this classic Oriental liquor, you can follow these steps: Inspect the color, smell the aroma, and taste the flavor.

Observe the “color” and “luster” of the liquor. Against the white background, you can see a yellowish “color” as well as a pure and clear “luster”, which is the excellent quality achieved by Moutai’s unique making technique.

Moutai’s sauce fragrance is a complex aroma formed in natural fermentation. It can be said that the aromatic components of this sauce fragrance are the most complicated in the world’s alcoholic beverages, and remain a mystery today. When drinking Moutai, from light smell to deep smell, you can smell the aromas of flower, grass, fruit, sweetness, dried plant, and acid…. It is these substances with different aroma characteristics that form Moutai’s complicated aroma characteristics.

Moutai is high-alcohol spirits. Therefore, tasting with a small sip is the most appropriate way. When Moutai enters your mouth, a cold aroma will permeate your tongue, and then a smooth and warm stream will fill your organs, giving an intoxicating enjoyment. In addition, Moutai has a topmost feature: no dizzy feeling, throat stimulation, or heart-burnt feeling after drinking; even with poor appetite, after drinking Moutai, people will have a good appetite.

Moutai is the only healthy drink in the Chinese liquor industry to boast multiple certifications, including Level A Green Food, Organic Food, Designated Origin Product, National Intangible Cultural Heritage, and National Raw Grain Solid-state Fermentation Liquor. Therefore, Moutai is also a symbol of health. Many examples have proved that long-term moderate drinking of Moutai is beneficial to health.

China Kweichow Moutai, French Cognac brandy, and Scotch whisky are all top distilled liquors in the world. Beauty or ugliness is just different life experiences brought by different cultures. Similarly, excellent spirits with different styles can also bring colorful cultural experiences for people.

To taste Moutai is to taste China. A cup of mellow and aromatic Moutai might lead you to experience the long and proud Chinese history, and feel the splendid chapters of the contemporary China. The vivid expression, vigorous emotion, and multilayered aftertastes of this wonderful liquid will be blended with your wonderful and colorful life.

Discovering Moutai’s origin

When chatting about fine liquor, people always mention Cognac, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Chablis, Barolo, Tuscany, Jerez, and Porto….These are all fine liquors named after places. Although in different languages, these liquor names have the same pride to declare to the world that “here is the only origin of fine liquor”. Among these is famous national liquor of China—”Moutai”.

If counting from the 10th year (A.D. 1745) of Qianlong’s reign amongst the Qing Dynasty, when Moutai applied 100% of wheat for producing Baishui Qu (a kind of koji), Moutai has over 200 years of history. If counting from the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, when liquor workshops emerged in Moutai Town according to the related official records, Moutai has over 400 years of history. If counting from 135 BC according to the “Records of the Grand Historian”, when Emperor Wu of Han drank the Jujiang liquor (predecessor of Moutai) from the Yelang state in northern Guizhou Province, highly praised it as “mellow and perfect”, and the liquor became well-known, Moutai has a long history of over 2,000 years….Besides historical documents, in recent years, more and more unearthed cultural relics and historical materials prove that Moutai’s origin can be traced back to the era of Da Yu, when the aboriginals called Pu Liao tribes lived around the Chishui River area, whose daily life and customs were inextricably intertwined with liquor.

Over thousands of years, under providence, the Chishui River and Moutai Town have become well-known for producing the excellent Moutai liquor, and the Chishui River has been reputed as the Liquor River, which boasts clear water wandering among mountains.

Originating from Zhenxiong County of Yunnan Province, the Chishui (red water) River surges through mountains and gorges, but slows down in Moutai Town. The Moutai valley features hot summer, warm winter, exceptional water quality, and ideal purple soil along river banks for growing the unique Moutai material—glutinous sorghum. The river valley surrounded by mountains serves as a natural cellar, where the finest Moutai liquor is made.

According to legends and records, with Ma Sang trees all over the mountains and fields, this place was thus named “Ma Sang Wan” (Ma Sang Bay). Later, the native Pu Liao tribes found a pure spring on the eastern bank of the Chishui River. Therefore, the Pu Liao people built a square well for passers-by to drink this spring and won the hearts of people. As time passed, people called this place “Si Fang Jing” (square well) instead of the original name “Ma Sang Wan”.

After that, with more frequent activities, people along the valley gradually explored the entire area. The terrace where the Pu Liao people worship their ancestors was still covered with couch grass. For generations, these people expressed respects to the exploration achievement of their ancestors at the couch grass terrace. Therefore, this place was “Maotai” (couch grass terrace).

After a large number of Pu Liao people settled here, popularity was gradually gathered. During Emperor Cheng’s period of the Western Han Dynasty, the Yelang region boasted advanced productivity and had surplus food production, which provided material conditions for the rise of the liquor industry. 400 years ago, Moutai Town saw a great boom of liquor making development. Since then, it became known as the “Premier Liquor Town” in China.

In the 10th year (A.D. 1745) of Qianlong’s reign in the Qing Dynasty, Guizhou Governor Zhang Guangsi was approved to build Chishui River waterways for boats. Sichuan salt was transported through the Chishui River to Moutai Town, also known as “Ren shore”, which was one of the four key ports for transporting Sichuan salt to Guizhou. With smooth land and water passages, the town attracted various merchants to gather here. Horse teams and boats were always busy with transporting salt and the markets were prosperous. As a result, “Sichuan salt went to Guizhou, Shaanxi merchants gathered in Moutai”, “every family stored liquor for sale, all boats carried salt only”, and Moutai Town became the prosperous and main distribution center for goods in northern Guizhou Province. Thus, the town was once renamed “Yi Shang Zhen” (beneficial commercial town) and shorted for “Yi Zhen”. However, because people had got used to call the town “Moutai” and felt difficult to change their habit. Therefore, the name was once again changed to “Moutai Town”.

The name “Moutai” was fixed since then, and this mellow liquor that intoxicated numerous people was named after the place, that is, “Moutai”.

During late Qing Dynasty and early period of the Republic of China, Moutai Town became an important port of northern Guizhou Province and two-thirds of salt for Guizhou was transported through here to the destinations. Moutai Town, therefore, was very famous in the country. With the development of the salt industry, the liquor industry also flourished. Moutai liquor was transported together with salt by horse teams to other places and gradually became famous, with higher prestige than the salt industry gradually. According to the “Records of Zunyi Fu”, during the Daoguang’s reign in the Qing Dynasty: “Moutai liquor made at Moutai Village in western Renhuai City ranks first in Guizhou Province….There are at least 20 distilleries in Moutai, with the annual consumption of 20,000 Dan (about 1200 tons) of raw grains.” During Guangxu’s reign in the Qing Dynasty, a series of Moutai liquors including Moutai Chun, Moutai Shaochun, and Huisha Moutai were sold to neighboring provinces, and Moutai’s unique making technique was established in general.

Just like all great and breathtaking art masterpieces, even without seeing the signature of the author, from the distinctive style and characteristics, people can surely distinguish who the author is. This is also true for the world’s fine spirits that deserve our praises. No matter where you are, from her special and intoxicating mellowness, you must be able to easily recognize this aroma, the aroma of “Moutai” liquor from the ancient Moutai Town of southwestern China.

Geographic uniqueness: a perfect brewing area at 30° N

Overlooking the earth from space, human will involuntarily marvel at the magic of the Creator. Quietly rotating, this blue planet has created countless touching stories and legends over trillions of years. In the mid-latitude area of the northern hemisphere, there are two latitudes that have always been favored by God: One is 45 degrees north and the other is 30 degrees north.

These two attractive curves added radiance and beauty to each other and bred ancient civilizations, magnificent landscapes, rich human heritages, as well as fragrant wines and spirits, all of which are integrated deeply with the mystery and glory of the East and the West.

There is no doubt that the latitude of 45 degrees north is a golden area for brewing brandy and wine where the world’s top brandy producing area—Cognac of France, as well as top wine producing areas—Bordeaux and Burgundy of France, Tuscany of Italy and even the rising-star California producing area of USA, are all located.

God seems to particularly love these terrains so much that supply them proper sunshine, rain, temperature and humidity, as well as rivers, hills and soil. All of these not only vitalize each grape with joyful growth but also create many world-renowned wine chateaus. With sunshine and coast, fruit fragrance and rivers, as well as great longing and blessing for life, those people who pursue delicate life use grapes to make good wines and savor elegance and romance from their wines.

The history was always similar and attractive. In the same mid-latitude band, another parallel reflected and shined mutually with the latitude of 45 degrees north and was closely connected with the ancient Oriental civilization. It was the latitude of 30 degrees north. This was the peculiar latitudinal band that gave birth to the four ancient civilizations. Many world-renowned rivers such as the Euphrates, Yangtze River, and Mississippi enter the sea around this latitude. In the ancient Chinese land, the latitudinal band of 30 degrees north also created a unique Chinese liquor-making environment—Moutai Town.

This deep and serene town is known as “China’s Premier Liquor Town”. The production activity of the Jiang fragrance liquor has a history of one thousand years. The unique water quality, soil, climate and microorganisms endow Moutai Town with the unduplicated noble temperament. The Chishui River flowing here is the mellowest “Spirits River” in China’s territory. Within the 500 kilometers area it covers, there are many top Chinese liquor distilleries. The river is rich in a variety of useful minerals and trace elements that are beneficial to health.

The purple gritstone geomorphologic structure formed 70 million years ago in the Jurassic and Cretaceous Periods has played a significant role on forming good water quality. This type of soil contains high levels of gravel and sandy soil and has good water permeability. Therefore, when the ground water and surface water pass through the soil layers, the beneficial minerals and trace elements are dissolved and the water becomes clear and sweet. Entering the Chishui River, the water becomes the precious source for making Moutai liquor.

Amazingly, the unique climate has contributed to the unduplicated brewing environment for Moutai. The latitude of 30 degrees north facilitates the subtropical warm climate. Surrounded by mountains, with an altitude of only 400 meters and the Chishui River flowing through, this area features mild winters, hot summers, slight wind, and moderate rainfall and serves as nature’s liquor cellar that is very suitable for microorganisms to breed and gather. Besides, the brewing activity with a history of thousands of years, as well as the abundant and unique microorganism active in the air together accomplish Moutai’s main fragrance—”Jiang fragrance”.

In 1970s, the Chinese Government organized experts to experimentally produce Moutai out of Moutai Town. With the exactly same personnel, equipment, raw materials and technology, the spirits yielded, however, did not come up to “Moutai flavor” at all. Since then, the conclusion that “Moutai cannot be cloned” has been spread widely. At present, covering 15.03 square kilometers, the origin region of Moutai has become a national key protected area and “Kweichow Moutai” is the only brand to be protected in the region.

Moutai ancestors, with spiritual intelligence, observed the seasonal changes, surveyed the favorable geographical factors, and used the natural essences of heaven and earth, such as grain, water, and microorganism as well as the scientific and ingenious technique to make good liquor. From the mellow and lasting bouquet, they felt the harmony between man and nature and savored the fashionable life that was nice in color, flavor, and taste.

Great changes have taken place over long years. Some regions, however, are always particularly favored by God. The latitudes of 30 degrees north and 45 degrees north, the Chinese Moutai Valley and the Western chateaus, the mellow liquor and the passionate cognac, together establish delicacy and taste for civilization and fill our lives with rich aroma.

Unveiling Moutai to the world

To celebrate the Panama Canal’s opening for navigation, the United States planned to hold a grand celebration. Somewhere around 1911, countries of the world were invited to the banquet of human civilization—the Panama-Pacific International Exposition.

The opportunity to display the nation’s strength and culture externally was highly valued by the Chinese government back then, and so on 28 June 1913, a committee was established. To improve the quality of exhibits, provinces and municipalities were ordered to set up their respective product associations to assist with the preparation for the expo – the result was the collection of a great array of items from all over the country, ready to be displayed at the expo.

As one of the most representative products of Kweichow, China, dozens of Moutai liquor selected from the two biggest liquor distilleries of Chengyi Shaofang and Ronghe Shaofang were recommended to the altar of the exhibition. Both distilleries used tawny pottery jars as liquor containers. Except the different surnames of “” and “” on the container labels, the liquor names and packages of the two distilleries were almost the same. Their liquors were under the same title “茅台烧坊出品” (Product of Moutai Distillery). According to international practice, the ministry of commerce’s officials regarded the two bottles of Moutai as one product, under the name of Kweichow Bureau by the manufacturer of “Moutai Liquor Brewing Company”, and the bottles were sent to the exhibition.

The Panama-Pacific International Exposition was located at the San Francisco Bay, spanning an area of 625 acres. Over 100,000 pieces of exhibits were displayed at the education, industrial and mining, agriculture, food and other of the 11 exhibition halls. Participated by a total of 41 countries, the exposition was held from February 20, 1915 to December 4. The expo spanned for nine-and-a-half months, with a total of more than 18,000,000 visitors, making it the longest spanning expo with the largest number of participants in the history of expositions.

Built with a resemblance to the Hall of Supreme Harmony of the Forbidden City, the Chinese pavilion stood out in the crowd of western structures with its quintessential Oriental style. The Chinese pavilion was opened on March 9, 1915. As a first time participant of international expositions, China was demonstrated in the world stage for the first time. On the first day alone, curious about the mystical ancient Chinese culture, more than 80,000 people including the President, Vice President and former President of the United States, as well as their entourage of high-ranking officials visited the Chinese pavilion.

With agricultural products and handicrafts being highlighted as the main exhibits, the Moutai liquor went easily unnoticed when mixed together with flour, linen, soybean, edible oil, and other agricultural products in the agricultural hall.

A consensus was soon reached on displaying the Moutai liquor in the food processing hall to highlight its status, as a competitive item as such should get the attention it deserved.

The most dramatic scene came when a tawny pottery jar fell from the shelves, in a fashion not unlike the disclosure of the thousands of years of secret buried in a town of a Far East country. The pot inevitably broke, and with it the dissemination of the liquor’s fragrant aroma. This incident would later contribute to the anecdote of ‘throwing bottles with intelligence’, and the liquor’s characteristic aroma came to be known to extend for miles at just the opening of the bottle.

As the rich aroma of Moutai diffused in layers at the pavilion, the crowd began to stir. Visitors began to walk towards the source of the scent in a dreamy state, as they did not want to miss the unique encounter with this liquor from the Orient.

Knowing the lasting fragrance of the Moutai liquor, Chen Qi, leader of the Chinese delegation, began to pour some Moutai into a few empty bottles, leave the bottles uncapped and allow the fragrance to fill the pavilion. He also put some glasses next to the bottles so that the liquor could be drunk by those who appreciated it.

The fragrance of the Moutai liquor is mainly derived from the metabolites of the liquor. In an open environment, the full body of the liquor’s fragrance is best enhanced when the liquor and air combines. The agricultural exhibition hall soon became the stage for Moutai to which curious visitors flocked. And in a concoction of noise and praise, the name of Moutai was announced to the world.

Led by Moutai’s sensational effect of “using bouquet as media”, agricultural exhibition hall became a shining star and various exhibits from the ancient Oriental country were demonstrated to the world, gaining numerous glories from that era.

As the star of the expo, the Moutai liquor was awarded the gold medal of honor by the professional evaluation committee. Soon after winning the gold medal of honor at the Panama-Pacific International Exposition, the Moutai liquor garnered the gold award at the Panama-California Exposition. In less than a year, Moutai had won two consecutive gold medals at world expositions, an unparalleled achievement to say the least. Since then, the name of “World Famous Liquor” has been with Moutai, generally recognized as the Top Three distilled liquors in the world along with Cognac from France and Scotch from Scotland.

The year 1915 was the starting point of Moutai liquor’s journey towards the outside world, and the voyage of this unique liquor has never stopped for the century that past.

The state of art techniques

If you are first time drinkers of the Kweichow Moutai liquor, you will surely be attracted by a strong and elegant aroma. That is, the “Jiang fragrance”, a complex, elegant, mellow, and multilayered aroma from natural fermentation of organic grains. It is different from the aroma of soy sauce or salad dressing. Therefore, the English translation of this aroma into “sauce” is inaccurate. In fact, “Jiang” here is a proper noun and should be used directly in English.

“You” (; means liquor), a magical Chinese character evolved from the shape of ancient liquor utensil, became name and form of liquor in the very beginning; in Chishui River in Southwest China, time even sublimated it to an unique bouquet: an evolution of “You” to “Jiang” (; means sauce), and that also implied an old and long brewing history of Moutai.

The valley of Chishui River where the liquor factory of Moutai is located is just 400 meters more above sea level, but the Dalou Mountains around are averagely over 1,000 meters above sea level; the big difference in heights formed a huge “wine-steamer-like” environment, plus the Chishui River keeps flowing all year round; all those elements therefore created a climate with nice weather and temperature. Hence hundreds of microbes live actively in the factory environment and benefits the brewing process; these invisible and untouchable elves affect the formation of the Jiang fragrance directly.

During its whole year producing period of Moutai, organic sorghum and wheat manufactured around the river valley area provide essential bouquet contents for this unique “Jiang fragrance”. Within a year’s time, these two kinds of organic grain experienced the brewing sections like batch feeding, cooking, starter propagation, materials storing, materials adding, stacking, fermenting and distilling etc.; these unique and mysterious techniques are already being inherited for a thousand years. With microbes’ sufficient acting, the liquor enriched by the nature was being brewed in the cellars with different types and processed to mixing after that; when the whole process is done, five years has passed.

At that time, Moutai is intoxicating enough. The judge in San Francisco World Spirits Competition, cocktail columnist in magazine “Malt Advocate” said, “Kweichow Moutai is, one of the liquors with the most complicated and interesting texture on the planet, and this valuable opportunity to visit the factory of Kweichow Moutai even assured me the rare preciousness of being that mellow.”

The main content of this Jiang fragrance liquor with “the most complicated texture” still could not be confirmed. As early as 1982, Japanese scholars used the Gas chromatography–mass spectrometry method to analyze the bouquets of Moutai, and resulted that there are 230 kinds. A long-term scientific study shows Moutai has more than one thousand kinds of volatile and non-volatile components, and volume of different types of aroma are all comparatively higher. Beside the fragrant materials like ester, alcohol, aldehyde and acid, it also contains such materials good for health as natural pyrazine, natural homofuraneol, 5-HMF, and benzofuran, which are also very important for forming the unique Jiang fragrance.

You may say, Jiang fragrance liquor is the grain distilled spirit with the most complicated aroma in the world, and Moutai as one of them has the best quality.

Feature video “Chishui in Nature” filmed by CCTV, China displays the beauty of Chishui River and the production of Moutai liquor, with lofty mountains set against the serpentine course of the river. Now, Moutai has brewed not only a long lasting Jiang fragrance for more than 2,000 years, but has recorded a scroll of ancient Chinese liquor culture.

The art of master blenders

Moutai masters have believed in the human beings’ coexistence with the organic nature, and inspired by such philosophy into the complex and rhythmic making process of Moutai: including grain harvest, grain to fermentation by foot-stepping, distillation, base pick-up and storage. Every step is done according to the natural flow of the seasons, so that the one-year cycle can yield valuable, precious Moutai liquor for the long ageing process in the future. With the passage of time, the soulful liquid grows in the spacious cellar as seasons passing from time to time, until it disseminates a perfect whiff of maturation and indication of the prime time for the liquid to be transformed into an unparalleled fine liquor.

However, there is still some more time to go before the liquid conquers with a long-lasting flavor and fragrance.

The appeal of the blending process in liquor-making lies in the liveliness, roundness and layers of aftertastes it gives to the liquor, which captures the drinker with a superb sensual experience from visual to scent and taste.

Historical evidence suggests that the baijiu blending technique in China was developed no later than the Han Dynasty, some even suggest a time as early as the Xia and Shang Dynasties or even earlier. Whether it is called “assemblage” or “coupage” in French, or “gou dui” in Chinese, the blending process is universal in winemaking in the world.

While there is not a dearth of wines made by blending edible alcohol, scented essence, spices and flavoring wines on the market, the Moutai liquor is made with the natural fermentation of organic ingredients, high-temperature distillation and multiple pick-ups. Due to the discrepancies resulting from different conditions and rounds of liquor base prior to distillation, every round of liquor base has its own character. To achieve the peerless aroma and flavor of the Moutai liquor, over 100 liquor bases from different rounds, produced in different years, with different fragrance must be blended to balance and bring out the best of each and every element of the liquor. The Moutai liquor is strictly a blend of liquor without additional substance like water or fragrance-enhancing ingredients, making it a healthy drink. The only “additive” to the liquor-making process is perhaps the liquor-maker’s ingenuity.

The indescribable fragrance of the Moutai liquor is one that exhausts the vocabulary of renowned sommeliers worldwide. Back in 1982, a Japanese scholar was able to detect up to 230 types of aroma in the Moutai liquor with the gas chromatography-mass spectrometry method, but his attempt at creating the Moutai liquor with edible alcohol and aroma-enhancing elements ended in failure. The complex aroma of the Moutai liquor is further supported by the latest research, which located 1,000 types of volatile and half-volatile ingredients, yet to be identified, in the liquor. Not surprisingly then that the sauce fragrance of the Moutai liquor remains a mystery today.

Yet what we are certain about is that this unique quality of the Moutai liquor owes much to the gift of nature, and the inimitable skills of the liquor-maker, for no man-made equipment can beat the sensitive sense organs and rich experience, which have enabled the perfect balance and layers of texture among the over 100 types of liquor bases produced in different years, with different tastes.

Like many traditional Chinese arts, the fine art of Moutai-making has been passed down from the masters to their apprentices for generations. The recipe that captures thousands of years of enhancement is now in the hands of a few maestros, and such is the appeal of the undisclosed blending of the Moutai liquor.

Its makers are crucial to the Moutai liquor’s status as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, as the makers are the exclusive few who truly understand the liquor, from its details to secrets. From the vigilant grain selection to years of professional ageing, the Moutai liquor is a continuous extension of a glory bestowed by the ingenuity of its makers.

Under the circumspect guard of the liquor-makers, blessing from the nature is magically fused to create a liquor with an unrivalled aroma, body and balance that easily passes rigorous inspections on its color, fragrance and flavor. And the perfect vintage is born.

The moment the liquor-maker calls it a finale for the long liquor-making process is also the moment when it dawns on us that the crucial link of the magnificent liquor is the maker, as only with his inspiration and talent can the liquor the nature destines us to make be crafted.

Knowing Moutai’s past and present from the bottle

Moutai is famous for its rich and distinctive Oriental style, profound culture, and superior quality. Within a white glass bottle tied with red ribbons, this liquor is dignified and restrained, mellow and unsophisticated, just like a humble artistic master who harmoniously integrates the Chinese history and culture into the mellow bouquet.

At this moment, the Moutai liquor is quietly placed at hand. With perfect round shape, the elegant white bottle is gentle and gorgeous. With the characteristics of Jiang fragrance liquor, Moutai liquor must be placed inside opaque containers. This helps the liquor to keep its authentic flavor, just like hidden in cellars. Under the dazzling Chinese red lid, two red ribbons embroidered with the characters “中國贵州茅台酒” (China Kweichow Moutai) are tied on the bottleneck. Aflutter in breeze and full of ancient flavor, all these designs are inspired by the ancient Chinese liquor flag.

On the top left of the label is the important trademark of Moutai—Feitian (Apsara or flying fairy). In the patterns, two fairies together hold a bottle of liquor while dancing, and descend from Heaven. The image of Apsara is derived from Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes which was the transport hub and business center on the ancient Silk Road as well as the intersection for the world’s four greatest civilizations and some ten ethnic cultures. Besides, the Apsara trademark had also hidden a little-known story behind.

According to legend, on a New Year Eve long ago, the warm-climate Moutai village exceptionally snowed heavily and a young man had a dream. In his dream, a beautiful girl in colorful clothes and draped with two red ribbons over her shoulders arrived by wind. She held a liquor cup and led him to the Chishui River. Then, she spilled the clear liquor into the river. The bouquet was so strong and refreshing. She also advised people to “fetch water from the river and make good liquor during the Double Ninth Festival every year”. Since then, during the Double Ninth Festival of each year, the reddish-brown Chishui River reverted back to its pristine form, with its water once again clear and visible to the bottom of the river, and the villagers fetched water from the river to make the fragrant liquor. This is the legend about the origin of Moutai.

At the bottom of the trademark is the characters “53% vol”, which is the most conventional alcohol content of Moutai. Scientific experiments prove that water molecule associates most closely with alcohol molecule when alcohol content is at 53% (V/V). In a classical experiment, when 53.94 ml of pure alcohol is mixed with 49.83 ml of water, the total volume is not 103.77 ml but 100 ml. Therefore, the traditional alcohol content of Moutai is very scientific and rational. With such alcohol content and at least three years of cellaring and aging, Moutai tastes mellow and mild, and has less stimulating effect despite its high alcohol content.

In the middle of the label, the characters “贵州茅台酒” in “Fangsong” font is printed on the bottle with a tilted angle of 45 degrees. Pure and noble, solemn and deep, it seems as if an elderly with vicissitudes tells the stories of long years.

Above the characters is the English name “KWEICHOW MOUTAI”, instead of the literal translation “GUIZHOU MAOTAI”. Why? Actually, this name comes from the Wade system, a romanization system that was created by the Briton Wade for Mandarin Chinese and widely used in such translations as personal names, place names, and trade marks. In 1920s, as a Chinese famous brand, Kweichow Moutai greeted the world. According to the prevailing Wade system at that time, the spelling of the liquor was “KWEICHOW MOUTAI”.

In 1958, the Chinese government officially approved the Hanyu Pinyin system, and the Wade system is gradually replaced by the modern Hanyu Pinyin system; however, the image of Kweichow Moutai has been well known in the international market. Therefore, the original spelling of “KWEICHOW MOUTAI” is allowed to remain in use, which demonstrates the long history and tradition of the Moutai liquor.

The lower right of label is printed with the characters “贵州茅台酒股份有限公司” (Kweichow Moutai Co., Ltd.), which is the world-renowned manufacturer for producing Moutai. Located in Moutai Town along the Chishui River in Zunyi City, Guizhou Province, the company was founded in November 1999 and successfully listed on the A-Share market in 2001. As of September 23, 2014, its total stock market capitalization has reached 179.842 billion RMB, ranking first in the industry.

The company’s leading product “Kweichow Moutai” is recognized as an outstanding national brand and among the “China Time-Honored Brands”. As a well-known liquor brand in the world, “Kweichow Moutai” has its own intellectual property rights. It is the only Chinese liquor brand that has garnered in one single product the title of Green Food, Organic Food, Geographically Representative Product, and one of China’s First Intangible Cultural Heritages from the China authorities. After winning the Gold Prize in the Panama Pacific International Exposition since 1915, Moutai has won international gold prizes for some ten times, and defended its championships in many Chinese liquor competitions.

Through an unsophisticated liquor bottle, a red ribbon, a liquor label recording history, and a cup of mellow nectar brewed from time, this liquor with millennial aroma will vividly tell the moving stories and legends deeply hidden in the years to every listener.

Superior choice of fine and mysterious liquor

The Moutai Town is the only place in the world that produces the Chinese baijiu (distilled liquor) called Moutai liquor. And such is the enigma of the Moutai liquor that renowned figures from different historical periods and parts of the world, such as Raúl Castro and Charlie Chaplin, have great words of praise to say about it. Endearingly known as the ‘fine liquor river’, the Chishui River runs through the settlement of the Moutai town, where every tree, fish and persevering mind contributes to each drop of the precious Moutai liquor. Together with the Chinese wisdom and prosperity, the pure and delicate nature of Kweichow province (also Guizhou), the Moutai liquor, known for its harmonious and charismatic qualities, is born.

Kweichow Moutai is the typical representative of Chinese Jiang fragrance liquor, and “China Moutai” has become the synonym of Chinese liquor.

Common Moutai Series

As a classic of Moutai, Feitian (English: Flying-fairy) Moutai has two specifications: 53% Vol and 43% Vol, of which the 53% Vol Feitian Moutai is the leading product of Moutai and a classic of Chinese Jiang fragrance liquor. Featuring slightly yellow, transparent, prominent Jiang fragrance, elegant, delicate, mellow, long aftertaste, and lasting empty-cup fragrance, the 53% Vol Feitian Moutai has won many international awards. This liquor has several topmost features: no hangover or dry mouthfeel after drinking; the older, the better aroma; its quality will be more outstanding if further preserved for several years and its aroma gets stronger and stronger over the years.

Millesimes Moutai Series

Aged Moutai liquor of specific years uses a liquor aged at least 15 years as base, which is then blended with liquors made in different years (strictly selected by liquor-making masters), with different stages, fragrance types, and liquor types to produce different classes of aged Moutai liquor with a rich mouthfeel. Generally speaking, according to age and quality, the aged Moutai liquor can be categorized into four classes: 15-year, 30-year, 50-year, and 80-year. Outstanding Chinese art and craft masters use traditional ethnic crafts such as Chinese wood engraving, purple clay, and ceramics to create gorgeous bottles and boxes with oriental classical beauty. Each type of Gift Moutai shows its distinctive artistic value.

80-Year Millesimes Moutai—distinguished masterpiece derived from time and the best of precious Moutai. This 53% Vol top-class and precious liquor has a light golden hue as well as a shining and clear luster. With subtle notes, you can smell the rich, delicate, subtle, and aged Jiang fragrance together with baking aroma, nutty aroma, and smoky flavor. Carefully savor it and you can feel silky smoothness and mellowness with lingering sweetness full of the mouth.

50-Year Millesimes Moutai—a semi-centurial precious liquor with pure and unique taste. This liquor has a light golden hue, a clear luster as well as the fragrant, pleasant and aged Jiang fragrance mixed with baking aroma, nutty aroma, and smoky flavor. With the same alcohol content of 53% Vol, this liquor is full and smooth, with strong and unique aftertaste.

30-Year Millesimes Moutai—a perfect combination of grains and seasonal flavors to offer both charms of years and times. With clear layers, the rich, mild, and aged Jiang fragrance is mixed with baking aroma, nutty aroma, and smoky flavor. It has a mellow and smooth mouthfeel as well as a long-lasting, round, and sweet aftertaste.

15-Year Millesimes Moutai—a gorgeous demonstration of classical oriental style through elegant aroma as well as subtly blended and extraordinary temperament. This liquor has a light golden hue as well as the classical and aged Jiang fragrance mixed with strong baking aroma, nutty aroma, and smoky flavor. With a classical alcohol content of 53% Vol, this liquor is mellow, smooth, strong, and powerful.

Gift Moutai Series

With individuality, the Gift Moutai series are the result of careful and small-batch blending of strictly selected base liquors with different ages, stages, fragrance types, and liquor types. Packed in different bottles and boxes, each type of Gift Moutai shows its distinctive temperament and unique attitude to life; however, all of them share the common features of Chinese culture and are very suitable for you to collect as well as carefully savor and appreciate with your friends and family.

Luxury Gold and Luxury Brown—selected and blended by maestros, two tastes in one liquor for you to enjoy the exquisite life. Slightly yellow, transparent, and clear, this liquor features prominent Jiang fragrance, with delicate and rich aromas of baking, flowers, grass, fruit, sweetness, and koji. With a high alcohol content of 53% Vol, this liquor still tastes mellow, elegant, mild, and smooth. It is

It is a born collection that is beyond the drinking standard. It is a result of several years’ concentration and combination of elegance and strength, a nectar for master collector.

Aroma: rich Jiang fragrance mixed with such aromas as baking, flowers, fruit, dried plants, and sourness Perfect Example of Combining the Chinese Liquor Culture With the Spirit of World-Renowned Chinese Movie Star Jackie Chan Aroma: natural Jiang fragrance mixed with aromas of flowers, grass, fruit, sweetness, dried plants, and sourness It is suitable for collecting and drinking straightly on special occasions.

Moutai Flavor Series

The Jiang Fragrance Moutai series share the same origin with common Moutai liquor, inherit the most traditional and authentic taste and spirit, absorb the fashion inspiration of the times, involve diversified values (concepts), and lead a new lifestyle. They are a series of young products with diversified appearances and consistently excellent quality. To ensure the excellent quality of the brand, quality control is strictly carried out for each type of liquor. Besides the consistently excellence quality of Kweichow Moutai, the entire series also have a distinct personality and rich taste, and provide more savoring choices.

Han Jiang is a classic of the Jiang family. With brand-new alcohol content for distinctive experience, it can be drunk straightly, paired with dishes, or made into cocktails.

Classical Oriental Temperament, Mellow Liquor Style, As Well As Strong and Lingering Aroma, for Conquering Young Taste Buds. Aroma: prominent Jiang fragrance mixed with such aromas as flowers, grass, fruit, and sourness Mouthfeel: elegant, comfortable, refreshing, and pleasant It can be drunk straightly, paired with dishes, or made into cocktails.

It is a prince of liquor for spreading happiness. It can be drunk straightly, paired with dishes, or made into cocktails. Moutai Ying Bin—a nation of etiquette, a good liquor for hospitality. It has a fresh, sweet, refreshing, and pleasant mouthfeel. It can be drunk straightly, paired with dishes, or made into cocktails.

Savoring the Best Oriental Liquor

China Kweichow Moutai is a classic Oriental liquor. It was described by the judges in the 2012 World Spirits Award as “with rich aroma of grain such as wheat and rice-like, mellow and balanced texture, clear layers, long aftertaste”, and was awarded the gold medal; its unique and wonderful Jiang fragrance is unparalleled among all spirits, and was highly praised by the famous Belgian bartender Alen as “strong”; although with a high alcohol content of 53%, Moutai is extremely mild and mellow and does not cause dizziness or hangover.

Such a charming liquor may arouse your curiosity: What is the exact taste of Oriental liquor?

With the locally grown sorghum as its sole material, Moutai is a result of a yearlong ancient process that is inherited for thousands of years. It is the nature, the brewing microorganism, the seasonal brewing, the complicated technique, and the long cellaring process that give Moutai its rich and multilayered style!

This enigmatic aroma is hidden in the liquid that is as transparent as water. In fact, if you compare a glass of water with a glass of Moutai, you will soon find their differences.

Against the white background, you can see a slightly yellow hue as well as a pure and clear luster. The older liquor, the deeper yellow. Aged Moutai will start to develop a clear amber tone, which is the excellent quality achieved by unique making technique.

This intoxicating aroma is deeply hidden in a glass of clear liquor, remaining silent but energetic.

Secondly, let’s enter a very enjoyable process, that is, smell the aroma. Studies show that Moutai contains over 1,000 volatile and semi-volatile components, the most complicated in the world’s alcoholic beverages in terms of aromatic components. Coordinated and balanced, these aromatic components together accomplish Moutai’s unique style. In the top notes, the Jiang fragrance is prominent. In the more subtle after notes, you can smell fragrance of flowers, grass, fruit, sweetness, and dried plants before giving way to the end note of sourness. With rich and clear layers, this complex aroma is elegant and delicate.

Thirdly, savor the taste. Moutai is a high-alcohol spirit. Therefore, the most appropriate way is to sip it slowly so as to savor its unique taste. Slowly sip the liquor. The amount should be just enough to fully coat the tip and blade of your tongue. Feel the slow and gentle movement of the liquor from the tip to the blade of your tongue. Initially, you can feel the sour taste at both sides of your tongue, and then the nutty aroma at the root of your tongue. Older Moutai liquor will have a smoky flavor. As the liquor goes further to your pharynx, you can feel the “koji aroma”, which is an important feature of Moutai. It is a very special and complicated aroma similar to the mixed aroma of fermented grains and flowers.

Now, you can swallow the liquor and a silky smoothness will coat the entire blade of your tongue and your throat. The older liquor, the slower movement on the blade of your tongue, and the mellower when swallowed. Now you can close your mouth and use your nose to breathe out the liquor aroma. Then, a delicate and mellow aroma of Moutai will return to your mouth, nasal cavity, and pharynx, which is called “long aftertaste”.

Finally, let’s smell the empty-cup fragrance. The “empty-cup fragrance” of Moutai is unparalleled. After finishing a cup of Moutai, with aftertaste in mouth, raise the empty cup closer to your nose and hold your breath. You can still feel the complex aroma of koji, flowers, and sourness, with elegant, pleasant, and lingering aftertaste. Even several days after the cup is emptied, you can still feel the lingering aroma of Moutai.

I believe, at this time the image of Moutai has been rooted in your mind. The final step is to determine the “style” based on the comprehensive feeling, which is equivalent to the overall image. As described by the 26 characters on the bottle, the style of Moutai is: “slightly yellow, transparent, elegant, delicate, and mellow, with prominent Jiang fragrance, long aftertaste, and lasting empty-cup fragrance”. This style is inseparable from the unique high-temperature koji production, seasonal making technique, long-term storage, and careful blending of Moutai.

If you have never tasted Chinese liquor and never experienced the ultimate feelings of sound, vision, sense, smell, taste, and touch, then, the unique taste of the Kweichow Moutai liquor will be the unforgettable enjoyment of your life.

Chinese and Western Appraisers, Moutai on the Palate

As 1,000 readers have 1,000 perceptions of Hamlet, in the wine world, different people have different sensory feelings. These feelings not only endow a wine with rich connotation and culture but also enchant people. As the renowned national liquor of China, what are Moutai’s unique flavor and charm in the eyes of different Western and Eastern appraisers?

Marcus Liu has spent several years learning and consulting with some of the best vintners and winemakers in Napa Valley (USA). With extraordinary wine tactility and insight, he has been invited since 2012 to be the wine columnist for Manifesto, a lifestyle magazine.

He tells us the unique experience of savoring Moutai: Respectfully and slowly open a 200-ml bottle of Kweichow Moutai. When it is first poured into the glass, due to the sophisticated fermentation procedures and unique blending, a multi-dimensional aroma – what the Chinese call “Jiang fragrance” – comes out right away. He also detects a condensed aroma of spices, flowers, pears and a hint of caramel. After drinking off, he immediately feels the most outstanding feature of Moutai – the taste of spiciness throughout the palate and the long-lasting finish.

Although one may perceive the spiciness as equivalent to the harsh mouthfeel of baijiu, he thinks that the spiciness gives pleasant stimulus to the palate and prolongs the finish with layers of maple syrup and a hint of honey. After finishing the shot, he indulges in a deep breath from the glass, and the aroma of tons of hawthorns fills up his nasal cavity immediately.

Andrew Dembina from the media industry is a Hong Kong-based writer, editor, radio producer, and presenter. He has edited food and drinks pages and numerous magazines, including Time, The Times Saturday Magazine (UK), Surface Asia and several airline titles for nearly two decades.

Through savoring, he feels the strong sensation of Moutai and an intense sweetness is immediately evident, with an underlying fruitiness that reminds him of caramelized grilled grapefruit. But the strength of the alcohol permeates the sweet tones, somewhat like with Italian grappa or some Eastern European plum brandies. Of course, he also feels a just perceptible salty edge from this imposing multi-faceted Moutai aroma.

In his opinion, although possible as an aperitif, a small and slowly savored dram is advised, due to the high alcoholic strength. After a meal it makes a more suitable digestif. Some have experimented with mixers or using the liquor in cocktails. He believes that it would lend itself to syrupy fruits such as mango, pineapple and pear; a splash of water or soda would allow the drinker to experience an opening up of the flavors. But drinking straightly in a sip is the purist way to go.

He is also erudite on food pairing. As with all high-alcohol drinks, this is a big challenge. In his opinion, if sipped occasionally, in small amounts alongside dishes with strong sauces or robust flavors from roasting or grilling, it can work, but larger gulps mask food flavors. Therefore, after a meal is the best way to go.

Annette Lee is an intellectual female appraiser. She finished her level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) – a United Kingdom-based international body in the field of wines and spirits offering globally recognized formal education on alcoholic beverages production and viticulture. She has her own wine column on the Hong Kong Daily News.

In her eyes, the Moutai liquor represents China, like Cognac brandy does for France and Scotch whisky for Scotland. Though the alcohol level is high (ABV 53%), it is hardly described as “pungent”. The aroma is attractive yet mellow and pure, with a pleasant nose of grain sweetness. The palate is delicate, rich yet complicated: sweetness first then the ticklish sensation on both sides of the tongue, followed by spiciness and heat sensation. The taste of soy sauce has a mild saltiness and spiciness that lingers in the mouth while subtle sweetness is always there.

Annette Lee thinks that the Moutai liquor is a highly balanced liquor with lots of complexity and a very long finish. For food pairing, she suggests having a try at Asian cuisine like shrimp sashimi in Thai hot sauce, sizzling chicken pot, and stir-fried mutton with black pepper and scallion.

These are undoubtedly the stunning and unique experiences for the taste buds of different Chinese and Western appraisers. These appraisers use their rich savoring knowledge accumulated over many years and personal experience to add lots of bright and fresh colors to the savoring stories of Moutai, and make people want to explore this tasty liquor immediately.

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